Silky Scrambled Eggs With Pancetta, Pepper and Pecorino

Keeping the heat low and steady is the key to these soft scrambled eggs. Pancetta adds a brawny bite, but you can leave it out to make the dish vegetarian. Do add lots of freshly ground black pepper, though: It’s what gives the custardy eggs a spicy snap.

Ingredients

• 2 to 3

  ounces pancetta, diced

• 1 to 2

  tablespoons unsalted butter

• 6

  eggs

• Pinch of salt

• Freshly ground black pepper

• Grated Pecorino Romano, Parmesan or other hard grating cheese

Preparation

1. Using a nonstick or well-seasoned cast-iron pan, heat the pancetta over medium. Let cook, shaking the pan, until the fat renders out and the pancetta browns all over, 3 to 10 minutes, depending on how large the cubes are.
2. If the pan looks oily, pour (or spoon) off any excess grease. Add butter to the pan and let melt. Reduce heat to low.
3. Beat the eggs and salt in a medium bowl until well mixed but not frothy. Pour into the skillet with the pancetta and, using a heatproof spatula or wooden spoon, scramble the eggs until they are just set, 2 to 4 minutes. Take care that the eggs don’t brown, lowering the heat further if necessary.
4. Divide the eggs onto two plates and shower pepper generously over the top. Sprinkle with cheese and serve at once.