With each bite, digest how Gozlan highlights South Carolina ingredients through a Spanish lens. That’s the theme of his new offering, which subtly nods to his Egyptian roots through the warm seasonings he was exposed to at home.
North African flavors are incorporated into Estadio’s moruno, which features three pierced pieces of kebab-like lamb showered in tximitxurri, the Basque brethren of chimichurri. Citrus envelopes the bold skewers, set atop airy dollops of velvety honey nut squash blended with garlic and a touch of butter.
It’s a delicious expression of a side of southern Spanish cuisine diners don’t always get to see. That Gozlan is able to recreate the flavors of the country’s Moorish history using regional ingredients makes it even more distinct.
Setting the standard
Estadio, under Gozlan’s watch, is a place for culinary exploration. The chef, for instance, lights up when discussing the beef hearts he sources from Hunter Cattle Co. in Georgia, which are soaked in Lowcountry Creamery milk overnight, marinated in Arbequina olive oil and pimentón, and cooked so that the skewered hunks eat like a lean but juicy cut of extra-meaty steak.
Cheesecake is served at Estadio.
Provided
It’s in this way that Estadio satisfies diners’ appetite for intriguing fare, even if the pintxos and tapas, most priced between $10 and $25, aren’t especially large or hearty. For a full meal, parties of two will want to order five to six plates and save room for Gozlan’s spectacular take on Basque cheesecake, the burnished beauty made with mahón and idiazabal cheeses.
Gozlan, like most chefs, would surely like menu prices to be lower. But delivering food this reliant on local ingredients comes at a cost, since small farms don’t have the pricing power of national conglomerates or the scale to drive down costs per product.
No matter the challenges, operating in this way is a non-negotiable necessity for the chef. It’s just as important to owner Max Kuller, who has a farm in Harleyville and a Michelin Green Star restaurant in Washington, D.C., defined by sustainability.
