Summer Squash Casserole

Linda Xiao for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Barrett Washburne.

“Why don’t you just cook something that tastes really good?” Julia Reed’s mother said that, chiding her daughter, a writer of uncommon style and wit who used to contribute food essays and recipes to The New York Times Magazine. Her mother thought Ms. Reed spent too much time thinking about complicated, over-the-top recipes at the expense of simple, honest American cooking that draws compliments not because it looks amazing, but because it’s delicious. Like, for example, this recipe, for what Julia called in a 2002 article, “the best squash casserole on the planet Earth.” The ingredients are by no means fancy — summer squash, jalapeño, white bread, Ritz crackers, eggs and Cheddar — but they combine in mysterious and marvelous ways to deliver a perfect accompaniment to grilled chicken or a weekend roast.

Ingredients

7
tablespoons unsalted butter, plus more for greasing the dish
2
pounds yellow summer squash
1
large onion, chopped
1
large clove garlic, chopped
½
red bell pepper, chopped
½
green bell pepper, chopped
1
jalapeño, seeded and chopped (optional)
4
slices plain white bread, toasted
24
Ritz crackers, crushed finely in food processor
½
pound sharp Cheddar, grated
4
large eggs, beaten
½
cup heavy cream
1
teaspoon granulated sugar
1
teaspoon kosher salt
¼
teaspoon ground cayenne

Preparation

Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Butter a 2 1/2-quart baking dish. Cut the squash into 1/2-inch-thick slices. Cook in boiling, salted water until tender, about 10 minutes. Drain. Purée in a food processor.
Melt 6 tablespoons of the butter over medium heat. Add the onion, garlic and peppers and cook until just tender. Meanwhile, crumb the toast in a food processor, melt remaining butter and toss together.
Mix the squash purée, onions, peppers, garlic, cracker crumbs and cheese. Stir in the eggs, cream, sugar and seasonings. Blend well. Pour into the baking dish. Top with bread crumbs and bake until browned, about 40 minutes.