Taiwanese Meefun

Meefun is a stir-fried rice noodle dish very common in Taiwan, and many cooks always claim that their version is the best. Traditionally, meefun has dried shrimp, but this vegetarian rendition gets its umami from dried shiitake mushrooms and gains a little heft from eggs. It’s delicious when first made, but can also be served at room temperature, so it will travel well to a picnic or gathering.

Ingredients

• 5

  ounces dried rice vermicelli

• 4

  dried shiitake mushrooms

• 5

  tablespoons vegetable oil

• 2

  eggs, lightly beaten

• 2

  large shallots, thinly sliced

• Kosher salt

• 1

  large carrot, cut into thin matchsticks (about 2 1/2 cups)

• ¼

  small green cabbage, shredded (about 2 1/2 cups)

• 8

  ounces baked or smoked tofu, cut into thin matchsticks (about 2 cups)

• 3

  tablespoons soy sauce

• 1

  teaspoon ground white pepper

• ¼

  cup fresh cilantro, roughly chopped

• Chile oil, for serving

Preparation

1. In a medium bowl, cover rice vermicelli in cold water and soak until softened, 5 to 10 minutes. Drain and set aside. Soak dried shiitake mushrooms in warm water until hydrated and softened, about 10 minutes, then drain and slice 1/4-inch thick.
2. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a large, deep skillet over medium. Add beaten eggs, swirl to create an even layer, and cook until eggs are set and cooked through, about 1 minute. Transfer the cooked eggs onto a cutting board. Let cool slightly, then cut into matchsticks. Set aside.
3. Return the skillet to the stove and raise heat to medium-high. Add remaining 3 tablespoons vegetable oil, the shallots and shiitake mushrooms. Season with salt. Cook, stirring frequently, until the edges of shallots begin to brown, 3 to 4 minutes.
4. Add carrot, season with salt, and cook, stirring frequently, until softened but still crisp, 1 to 2 minutes. Add cabbage, season with salt, and cook, stirring frequently, until slightly wilted, 1 to 2 minutes.
5. Add tofu, soy sauce, drained rice vermicelli and 1 cup water, and cook, stirring frequently, until the noodles absorb the water, 5 to 6 minutes. Season with salt and white pepper, and stir in reserved eggs to combine. Serve topped with cilantro and chile oil.